![]() ![]() I'd like to strengthen this part of the pedal as it didn't take much horizontal pressure to break it. There is a hollow channel there that I've blotched with orange in the second picture. I thought I would take a couple pictures of the new part and point out the weak spot where mine broke. It looks a bit different than I expected because the metal bracket that comes with it is not shown in GM's part diagram. Refer to Clutch Pedal Engine Start Switch Replacement. Remove the shipping clip (1) from the new pedal assembly.ġ3. Connect the electrical connector (2) to the CPP switch (1).ġ2. Rotate the switch (1) clockwise to secure.ġ1.6. While holding the pedal in the fully released position, press the switch (1) toward the pedal until the barrel of the switch touches the drill bit on the pedal assembly.ġ1.4. Install the CPP switch (1) to the clutch pedal assembly.ġ1.3. Insert and seat the 3/32 inch or 2 mm drill bit through the slotġ1.2. A 3/32 inch or 2 mm drill bit can be used as a gage tool for the proper adjustment of the CPP switch. If a new clutch pedal assembly was installed, perform the following steps to adjust the pedal position switch:ġ1.1. Connect the clutch start switch (2) to the clutch pedal bracket.ġ1. Install the clutch pedal retainer to the front of the clutch pedal assembly.ġ0. Connect the clutch pedal position switch (2) to the clutch pedal bracket.ĩ. Connect the clutch master cylinder to the clutch pedal assembly.ħ. Install the steering column mounting bolts and steering column opening cover. Install the clutch pedal bracket to front of dash nuts. Install the clutch pedal and bracket assembly.Ĥ. Secure the clutch pedal and return spring and install the clutch pedal pivot bolt (1) and retainer (2).ģ. Install the clutch pedal (3), return spring (2), and pivot bushings (1).Ģ. Remove the clutch pedal (3), return spring (2), and pivot bushings (1).ġ. Secure the clutch pedal and return spring and remove the clutch pedal pivot bolt.ġ1. Remove the clutch pedal pivot bolt (1) and retainer (2).ġ0. Remove the clutch pedal and bracket assembly.Ĩ. Move the steering column enough to have clearance to remove the clutch pedal and bracket assembly.ħ. Lower the steering column opening cover and remove the steering column mounting bolts. Remove the clutch bracket to front of dash nuts.Ħ. Disconnect the clutch master cylinder from the clutch pedal assembly.ĥ. Disconnect the clutch pedal position switch (2) from the clutch bracket.Ĥ. Remove the clutch pedal retainer from the front of the clutch pedal assembly.Ģ. It takes a delicate touch to get the clutch just right, so somebody that is ham-fisted or lazy can easily wreck the clutch in short order.1. Something to note- this car has a very light flywheel, and if you have the Stage II or higher kit it could be over 250 hp to the wheels: mine has head work and other mods so its pushing over 300 hp, and runs ~13.8 in the 1/4 mile. If it has LSD and/or the Competition Package (grey center wheels, boost gauge above the steering wheel) then that adds about $1,000 to the used price. If the car is otherwise in decent shape, then it would be worth repairing- my car has been quite reliable, 140k miles with original clutch, averages 28 mpg. Since this engine and trans was common to the Cobalt SS, you could get another estimate at a Chevy dealer and see how it compares. So given that info, I think the estimate you got is right on the money - 8-9 hours labor plus parts. They do not break down the difference on the on the M86 vs MU3 trans- one is LSD and the other is not LSD, so I think it just does not matter for purposes of clutch labor or parts. It looks like the transaxle must be R&R to replace the clutch disk, and replacing the pressure plate only adds. OEM Clutch disk is part 12589049 and indicates about $136. The mfg rate for a warranty repair is 4.3 hours, and standard rate is 8.1 hours. I also have an active AllDataDIY for this vehicle. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |